Reaper Bones 77525 Great Obelisk of C'thulhu

This figure was purchased during my first visit to a local gaming store in quite awhile. I painted it up as a weekend project. It will come in handy the next time I run a game featuring a certain Great Old One.

A pair of barbarian mercenaries guard a weird statue. Their robed employers are a little strange, but their coin spends the same as any other. (28mm scale Reaper Miniatures figures provided for comparison.)

The color scheme was inspired by a scene in "Call of Cthulhu" (the story, not the game). It includes a description of "a grotesque, repulsive, and apparently very ancient stone statuette" of a certain cosmic horror. H.P. Lovecraft uses the terms "greenish" and "greenish-black" for the color of the stone. I ignored the comments describing the "golden or iridescent flecks and striations" for simplicity's sake. This was a weekend project, not something I was shooting for perfection on.

The figure is made from the newer grey Bones material rather than the white Bones plastic I'm used to working on. I decided to use the techniques I usually use rather than experiment. My habit of only using craft paint on terrain pieces reared its head - I used FolkArt paints almost exclusively except for the plastic base and washes.

Rear three quarters view. The inscriptions go all around the figure.

Preparation
I gave the figure a good scrubbing with warm soap and water to remove any manufacturing residue. There were no noticeable mold lines.

Basing
Although it comes with an integral base, I glued the figure on a Reaper 74036 2" Round Plastic RPG Base for additional stability. I primed the base with auto body spray primer before gluing it to the figure.

Priming/First Coat
I mixed a few drops of FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium with FolkArt 479 Pure Black and brushed it over the entire figure. This provided a good underlayer for the dark green paint scheme I was planning for this figure.

Second Coat
Next came a mix of FolkArt 644 Grass Green, FolkArt 2561 Steel Grey, and FolkArt 479 Pure Black to create the "greenish-black" in H.P. Lovecraft's description. I mixed the paints by eye, so I'm not sure about the ratios. This coat was lightly brushed over the figure. The intent was to avoid getting too much paint into the recesses, allowing the initial coat of black to show through as shadows.

Highlight Layer
I drybrushed a little FolkArt 544 Grass Green over the raised areas and corners of the figure. It created a nice, otherworldly effect - almost a glow - that fit with the cosmic horror theme.

An expedition from Miskatonic University's Terra Nova campus investigates an unusual find on an airless moon. (15mm scale GZG figures provided for comparison.)

First Wash Layer
Additional shading was provided by a layer of Reaper 09255 Black Wash brushed over the entire figure. It also brought out the recessed details - especially the symbols - that were starting to get lost in all the dark green.

Second Wash Layer
Secret Weapon W008 Baby Poop Wash was the key to a previous Cthulhu-related project. I decided to use it on this project for consistency. A coat of the green-brown wash tied everything together.

Basing
The final step was to use some sand to texture the plastic base to blend it in with the integral base. The sand was held in place with a mix of Aleene's Tacky Glue, FolkArt 231 Real Brown, and water. After allowing it to dry, I brushed on some FolkArt 420 Linen to give simulate dry soil or sandy terrain. A coat of FolkArt 479 Pure Black was painted on the edge of the plastic base.

Front three quarters view. I hope those guys got paid in advance.

This is a fairly simple figure that gets the point across. It's a hefty chunk of plastic that doesn't have an exciting amount of detail, but it's size gives it a presence on the table. It should work for a variety of scales.

Throwback Project - Secret Weapon Tablescapes Rolling Fields Test Tiles

These terrain pieces were part of Secret Weapon Miniatures' Tablescapes Tiles line. Each 12x12 inch tile is made of sturdy injection molded plastic and locks together using clips. I received a box of sixteen tiles as a Kickstarter backer reward several years ago. I choose the Rolling Fields tiles as the ones with the most utility. Uneven natural terrain featuring a dry creek bed works in any number of settings ranging from fantasy to modern to sci-fi. Secret Weapon Miniatures seem to have phased out the Tablescapes Tiles line and the Rolling Fields are no longer available on their website.

The pair of tiles I painted and detailed as test pieces.

I decided to pick out a couple of tiles as test pieces rather than tackle the whole box of sixteen at once. Some of the techniques I used were tested on the Games Workshop Moonscape Craters earlier this year. Using spray paints cut down painting time considerably, even though I ended up waiting for periods of moderate humidity to get the painting done. I also used a post on the Secret Weapon Miniatures blog for inspiration. The techniques I used differed from the ones described in that post, but they were handy as a reference.

Comparison of the top and bottom of the tiles. The underside is unprimed and unpainted, showing the original color of the plastic.

Preparation
There wasn't any flash or mold lines to cut off, so I went directly to the other kind of clean up. A short soak and some scrubbing in warm soap and water did the trick.

Spray Priming/Painting - First Layer
I sprayed Krylon Camouflage Ultra-Flat Black over the upper surface, using two thin coats to get into all the recesses. Experience has taught me that Krylon Camouflage bonds well to plastic, so I was able to skip priming the tile.

Spray Painting - Second Layer
Next was a coat of Krylon Camouflage Ultra-Flat Brown. I wasn't worried about getting it into every nook and cranny. Any black still showing in the recesses would appear to be shading. I could still see the black through the brown in some areas, but I decided against another coat of brown. Since soil is not uniform in color, I felt that such variations made the tiles look more natural.

A trio of warriors make their way over the dusty badlands.

Spray Painting - Final Layer
I used Krylon Camouflage Ultra-Flat Khaki for the last coat of spray paint. It was applied at an angle so that some of the previous coats would still show through, especially in the recesses. Krylon Camouflage produces convincing natural colors - as the name implies - and the finish has little or no gloss.

Detailing
The brush work started as I painted the rocks using FolkArt 2561 Steel Grey. Looking back, the rocks really shouldn't be the same color. The later highlight and wash layers disguise their uniform color, but I might try for more variation for the next batch. Also, I didn't paint every single rock - just picking out the larger ones was enough for me.

A certain landing party explores another arid planet.

Highlight
I drybrushed a little FolkArt 420 Linen over the surface of each tile to bring out some of the raised details and provide more color variation.

Wash
I mixed a wash using FolkArt 231 Real Brown, a little Liquitex Matte Medium, and water. Then I reached for the biggest hobby brush I own to apply it to both tiles. The final step was to wipe off the excess with a sponge. The wash also seems to have settled deeper into the recesses of the flatter tile, resulting in a darker color. The effect isn't too jarring in most lighting conditions, so I'm not concerned enough to try to correct it. There is also some pooling and streaking visible in some areas.

Close up of the two tiles placed together. Note the slight color difference between the two tiles.

Flock and Static Grass
I decided to go light on the greenery for the first pass. It's in keeping with the dry, desolate look I was going for with the paint scheme. Besides, covering up the texturing on the tiles seemed like a bit of a waste to me.

Overall, the paint scheme turned out the way I wanted - suggesting a place where it hasn't rained in awhile. Maybe it's a little too dry. I may go back for another pass with the flock and static grass. If nothing else, it will cover up some parts where I got a little too aggressive with applying the drybrushing or wash. After that, I'll start knocking these out a tiles or two at a time.

The Klingon Prison Ship IKS Shelka - A Star Trek Adventures Mission Treatment

Sharing another idea from my dusty pile of notes. As before, I present the basic idea and comment on how it can be adapted to different circumstances and eras of Star Trek.


IKS Shelka

There are times when the Klingon Empire has a prisoner that is too high risk for Rura Penthe and too valuable to execute.

One solution is to take a decommissioned battlecruiser out of mothballs and convert it into a mobile maximum security prison. A variety of battlecruisers have served in this role over the decades. The ship is referred to as IKS Shelka in classified records, but it runs under a number of false names and registries conceal its identity and purpose. Shelka is typically deployed to remote parts of the Empire with a carefully vetted crew and their charges. Any observers it would assume it to be another obsolete warship serving out its last days patrolling a backwater sector.

In 2371, IKS Shelka is a K't'inga-class battlecruiser with transponder codes declaring it to be any of a dozen other Klingon warships of the same class. Holographic emitters can change the name and registry painted on the hull in the unlikely chance that the captain lets another ship get close enough for a look. Shelka runs under cloak at random times to throw off attempts to track it. The ship's flight plans are highly classified and the captain has the authority to change course on a whim if there is any suspicion that Shelka is being pursued. As a last resort, Shelka retains its full armament and a reinforced compliment of security personnel. Shelka's captain and crew are under orders to take all necessary measures to keep their charges secure.


"Person of Interest"

Shelka is an expensive prison to run and space is limited. Individuals are sent there only if they are worth the trouble. One such individual happens to be the only person in the galaxy who has the answers the player characters are looking for. Unfortunately, the Klingon Empire isn't keen on giving up the latest prisoner of Shelka. Starfleet Intelligence knows of the existence of Shelka, but hunting down a battlecruiser in a remote sector of the Klingon Empire is an adventure in itself.

This may work best in eras when the interests of the Federation and Klingon Empire aren't aligned. TOS is the obvious choice, but Shelka isn't likely a K't'inga in that era - I'd use a D7 upgraded with a cloaking device instead. There is also the period of tension and outright war in 2372-2373. With most of the Klingon fleet either invading the Cardassian Union or engaging Starfleet, there would be an opening for a single starship to slip into Klingon space and find Shelka.

Alternately, the Klingon Empire could be reluctant to give up the prisoner even to an ally. The individual may possess information that might harm the Empire or the reputation of one or more of its high officials. In that case, finding Shelka is the only option. A Starfleet crew might try persuading Shelka's captain to allow them to question the prisoner. Klingon player characters may opt for a more direct approach and worry about the political consequences later.


"Run for the Border"

The KDF detects Shelka making a high speed run for the borders of the Klingon Empire. All communications were lost days ago. Now, with the prison ship running for another polity's space, they assume the worst. There is a KDF task force already on its heels, but they are too far behind to catch up before it reaches the border. The Klingons must find some way of slowing, stopping, or destroying Shelka.

The Klingon Empire captured someone of value from another organization and placed them in one of the Empire's most secure facilities. The covert arm of that organization sent in a team on a fast ship, intercepted Shelka, and freed the prisoner. Their mission was complicated when their ship was destroyed in the process. The individual, the covert operations team, and any prisoners they could convince to join their cause took the only option available - seize control of Shelka and make a run for it!

How things play out depends on the organizations involved:

The Cardassian military might have a few warships standing by on their side of the border, but won't risk escalating the situation unless they are already at war with the Klingon Empire (any time after 2372).

There is a brief period in 2371 when the Obsidian Order has the warships to support their covert operation team, but might not want to play that card.

In periods where the Federation and the Klingon Empire are in conflict, this could be a covert Starfleet operation to extract a high value asset or captured Federation official. The player characters could be on the covert operations team aboard Shelka or on a starship trying to intercept Shelka before the Klingon task force can catch up. Escape attempts by the other prisoners will complicate these efforts. Additionally, any surviving Shelka crew will take any opportunity to prevent escape, even if they have to destroy the ship.

If the Federation and the Klingon Empire are allies during the adventure, the player characters' starship could receive a call for aid in intercepting Shelka before it can escape. This may present a moral quandary for a Federation starship crew if no alternative to destroying Shelka presents itself. Alternately, the player characters could receive a call for help from Shelka - the prisoners want to claim asylum within the Federation! Things get awkward when the Klingons show up wanting their prisoners back.

The prisoner may be a Klingon renegade with information that the Empire wants, but has resisted all attempts at interrogation. The prisoner might be rescued by mercenaries hired as deniable assets by other Klingons. Romulans if the prisoner is associated with the House of Duras. Or associates of the prisoner from the Orion Syndicate.

The Orion Syndicate might arrange for another fast ship to take the prisoner and the team to safety before Shelka can be intercepted, but aren't likely to take on a Klingon task force.

The Romulan Star Empire could be relying on its military or the Tal Shiar to run such an extraction operation. In either case, cloaked warbirds are likely already on the way to intercept Shelka. In the case of the Romulan military, they may have enough force on hand to make a fight of it with the pursuing Klingon task force. The Tal Shiar may not have that kind of firepower, but are likely to have something tricky in mind.

Tutorial - On Prepping Reaper Bones

Something that comes up in every post about painting a Reaper Bones miniature is describing how I prepare it beforehand. I don't want to skip or gloss over the details - it's potentially valuable information for anyone unfamiliar with the plastic used in earlier Bones figures. On the other hand, there's a fair number of steps involved and I don't want spend too much time on them every time I publish a Bones post. It gets repetitive. And I'm running out of ways to rephrase the information.

This post describes the process that works best for me. It is partly the result of information I found online - credit and links to those sources are provided. I came by the rest the old fashioned way - trial and error.

Note that this process is specific to the white plastic used in earlier Bones miniatures such as those from the first Kickstarter. I don't currently have any experience with the light grey plastic used in more recent Bones figures manufactured in the USA or the dark grey plastic in Reaper's Bones Black line. I'll be learning how to work with those materials when I get to those parts of my collection.


Cleaning

My first step with any model is a through scrubbing in warm soap and water. No special detergents or tools - just dishwashing soap and a toothbrush with firm bristles. The residue from manufacturing can remain on Bones miniatures even after a long period of storage. A good cleaning removes it along with any skin oils from handling.

Reaper Bones miniatures after gluing them on to washer bases, before brushing on primer mix.

Steel Fender Washer

I keep a stack of one inch steel fender washers that I previously spray primed around for Bones and other plastic miniatures. Gluing a washer to the underside of the integral base of a Bones miniature keeps it from falling over on the table. The extra weight and wider base adds stability, but the washer is thin enough not to add too much height to the figure. I got the idea from Chris Palmer at All Bones About It, who is much further along with his Bones collection than I am. Blending the integral base with the flat surface of the washer is a process I describe further below.


Priming

Brushing on FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium is recommended in this post on the Reaper forums. Some folks have good results from painting directly on the plastic, but I had issues when I tried that approach. I've also had fair, but workable results from using Liquitex Matte Medium whenever I've run out of FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium. It didn't seem to hold the paint as well, requiring an additional coat to get good coverage.

Since both mediums are clear and difficult to see on the white plastic, I add a few drops of paint to see what parts of the figure are coated. Another benefit is that the paint tends to collect in the recesses, making the details easier for me to see. I use either a brown or black paint, based on what colors I'm planning to use on the figure.

I avoid using spray paints or primers on Bones miniatures. The results from the one time I tried were poor. The surface of that miniature never got better, even after I plowed ahead and painted over the spray paint. "Rolf" ended up in the recycle bin when even a long soak in Simple Green didn't fix the problem.

After brushing on primer mix. This is usually the step when I discover all the details - including the mold lines I missed.

Base Texturing

I typically finish a Bones miniature by mixing some PVA glue, brown craft paint, and just enough water to improve the flow. The mix gets brushed over the surface of the integral base and the washer. Then I sprinkle enough sand to provide texture and blend both surfaces together.

I used to brush on PVA glue and water to hold the sand in place, wait for it to dry, then apply the brown paint. Adding the paint to the watered down glue streamlines the process.

The final step happens after the mix has dried completely and the sand is securely in place. I dry brush some light tan or linen colored craft paint over the sand. How much depends on the results I'm after - a little to simulate dry earth, more to give the base a sandy appearance.


The above goes into the process I use with Bones miniatures in much more detail than anything I've presented previously. I'll be linking to this post in future posts featuring Reaper Bones miniatures.

Throwback Project - Wargames Factory Shock Trooper Test Piece

I recently dug another out of production product out of storage and into the light of my work table. Rather than tackle the whole box, I decided to try a single figure first. I had two goals - gain experience with a multi-piece plastic figure and test the subdued paint scheme I had in mind.

"Shock Troops" is printed in a larger font, so let's go with that.

What this product is actually called is a little confusing. Both "Shock Troops" and "Greatcoat Troopers" are clearly visible on the box. I'm going to refer the product as Shock Troops and this test piece as a Shock Trooper to keep them distinct. The now-defunct Wargame Factory produced the Shock Troops about a decade ago. They fit what I was looking for at the time - a set of fairly generic sci-fi bad guys at a reasonable price.

I couldn't get the arms in quite the pose I wanted, but this works for a test piece.

Assembly didn't go quite as planned. I picked a standing body, a head wearing a gas mask and helmet, a weapon that could be either a rifle or energy weapon, and a left arm to support the weapon held by the right arm. The head was a little awkward - I might file down a couple of spots on the neck and body for a better fit next time. I was able to glue the arms on easily enough, but a lack of recent practice with this kind of multi-piece figure meant that the left arm ended up out of position. It's hovering under the weapon rather than supporting it. Given that getting some experience with this kind of thing was a goal here, I'm not too worried about it.

Next, I glued the figure on to a steel fender washer. It's the same approach I use for Reaper Bones miniatures and for the same reasons. The additional weight and width of the steel washer less prone to going prone on the table. The thin washer also doesn't add too much height to a figure that already has an integral base.

Maybe a little too dark and subdued?

The whole piece - washer and all - got a couple of thin coats of Krylon Camouflage Ultra-Flat Black. It bonds well to plastic and doesn't end up looking glossy.

I brushed Reaper 09088 Stormy Grey over the Krylon. It is a dark grey that works well as a highlight for black. In this case, I left some of the Krylon showing in the recesses as shadows.

A mix of Reaper 09293 Alien Flesh and Reaper 09088 Stormy Grey was brushed on to the uppermost parts of the figure as a final highlight.

I had some black-blue wash that I had mixed for a previous project still around, so I brushed some on to blend the different paint layers together. The wash also brought our a little more detail.

For the goggle lenses, I started with an underlayer of white paint. The bright green is Reaper 09294 Alien Goo followed by Citadel Washes Thraka Green.

The final touch was to add some texturing to blend the integral base and the washer together. Some sand and a mix of PVA glue, brown paint, and water did the job. I lightly brushed on a little sandy colored paint over the sand after it dried to add another layer of color.

Rear view. Not the most detail I've seen on a 28mm scale miniature, but enough to get the point across.

The result might be a little too dark and subdued. On the other hand, these are supposed to be mooks or minions rather than major threats. And the paint scheme goes on fairly quickly and easily. Maybe I'll try something similar next time, but with a camouflage color like brown or green.

Reaper Bones 77055 Anval Thricedamned, Evil Warrior

This is 77055 of Reaper's Bones line - Anval Thricedamned, Evil Warrior. Which may very well be the most edgy name I've yet encountered for a Reaper Miniatures product. Bravo! As with the majority of the Bones miniatures in my collection, this one came to me by way of the first Reaper Bones Kickstarter.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do whenever I finish all the Reaper Bones miniatures I currently own. Their low price and commonality means that I can just pick one out, get it done, and move on to the next thing without feeling much pressure. It's a convenient break between other projects. Of course, running out of Bones figures isn't something that I need to worry about in the near future.

Anval wouldn't look out of place in a gladiatorial arena.

Cleaning
Something that I've been neglecting to mention in recent posts is this step. A good scrubbing with a toothbrush and some warm soap and water removes anything that the figure might have picked up from manufacturing, storage, or handling. This is especially important for plastic or resin, but I do it for metal miniatures too.

Basing
I keep a stack of spray primed steel fender washers around for plastic figures. Gluing the integral base on to a washer keeps it from falling over if the table gets bumped.

Priming
I've gotten into the habit of using a mix of FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium and craft paint - brown in this case - on Bones material. The mix offers a surface suitable for painting and makes the details easier to see.

Metallic Areas
The armor and metal parts of the axe got a layer of Citadel Colour Codex Grey. Metallic paints don't always coat well, so an underlayer is generally a good idea. Next I completely covered the Codex Grey with Citadel Colour Boltgun Metal. Citadel Colour Mithril Silver was used as a highlight.

Metallic Area Wash
I brushed on a coat of Army Painter Warpaints Quickshade Dark Tone to settle into the recessed details and give the armor and axe a well-used appearance.

Skin
My most recent paint purchase was a more diverse range of colors for skin tones. In this case, I decided to give Reaper 09260 Bronzed Skin a try. It's a nice golden tan rather than the dark tan provided by Reaper 09044 Tanned Skin.

Leather and Wood Areas
I used Reaper 09284 Lonestar Leather for the belt, various straps, back of the boots, and axe handle.

Skin, Leather, and Wood Wash
Deciding between Army Painter Warpaints Quickshade Strong and Soft Tones took awhile. The Strong Tone was a little too dark and the Soft Tone was a little too light for the effect I wanted. I ended up mixing the two. It's something I'll have to keep in mind for future projects.

Basing
I glued a little sand along the edges of the integral base to blend it better with the steel washer. The whole thing - integral base, washer, and sand - got painted with a layer of black followed by a layer of grey.

Anval has a question to axe... I'll get my coat.

I like how this one turned out. Although I'm noticing that I seem to have been on a barbarian kick when painting Bones lately. Maybe I'll dig into some other parts of my Bones collection next time.

Kenko Extension Tube Set - First Impressions

The vagarities of product delivery dates, my weekend schedule, and the appearance of a family emergency allowed me a whole hour to try out the extension tubes from Kenko. This is not a proper review, but my first impressions and how I see using this product for shooting the photos posted on this blog. I'm going to be tossing around some camera jargon like aperture settings due to the nature of this post.

The three extension tubes come attached to each other. It makes storage easier.

I purchased the Kenko Teleplus DG Extension Tube Set as an alternative to buying a macro lens. All lenses have a minimum focusing distance. This means that most lenses won't get close enough to a small object for the subject to take up most of the image without getting too close and producing a blurry image. To put it another way, most lenses work fine when taking a photo of a field of flowers, but a photo of a single flower might get lost in the background or be out of focus. Macro lenses can focus on very close objects, but tend to be expensive. Extension tubes change the minimum focusing distance of an existing lens, allowing the lens to get closer to the subject.

All of these photos were shot with a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM lens using the same settings: f/16, ISO 200. The images were cropped from 3:2 to 4:3 to fit this blog's format, but no other editing took place. All ranges were measured from the focal place mark to the subject.

For these test shots, I used a Reaper Chronoscope 50274 Sarah Blitzer, IMEF Sniper placed on top of a Warsenal Small Shipping Container. There was no particular reason for me to pick these as subjects. They just happened to be within reach in the short time I had to spare.

Lens only, 14 inches.

This shot is typical of the ones I've been taking for this blog for awhile now. It is good for shooting a scene or part of a game in progress. The shot is wide enough to show multiple figures with terrain. It is not suitable for showing off a paint job without cropping. It's not bad. A shot like this is useful for certain things, but I've been looking for a way to get the camera a little closer.

12mm extension tube, 12 inches.

Moving the lens a couple of inches towards the subject makes a significant difference. The figure fills more of the shot. Finer details of the sculpt are more clearly viable. Even the texture of the MDF used in the terrain piece is viable. This extension tube will likely see the most use.

20mm extension tube, 9 inches.

Getting in this close means the figure fills most of the shot. This is the equivalent of a close inspection of a miniature without picking it up. The details are clearly viable. So are any flaws in preparation, assembly, or painting.. I'll use this one when I'm feeling confident about the job I did.

36mm extension tube, 7 inches.

This is a little too close. I wasn't able to get the focus as sharp as I'd like - the auto focus refused to work outside of a narrow range and manual focusing was hit and miss. I'm not sure that I need a shot like this for this blog, but I'll keep playing with this as an option.

At this point, I have a rough idea of what each extension tube does. I'll be getting a better grasp of how to best use them as I shoot photos of upcoming projects for this blog. I'll share those more in-depth thoughts after I feel that I've gotten the hang of them.

The Post Where I Go On About Photography Gear

I'm in the process of trying out my new extension tubes and I'll be posting the results with commentary soon. In the meantime, it occurred to me that I never covered the gear I use for the photos on this blog. My process has evolved over time, so I'll start with the constants. Then I'll go over the camera I ended up phasing out. Finally, my current gear.

The Constants

The Table
When I use the term "tabletop gaming" on this blog, this is usually the table I'm referring to. This well-worn surface has seen plenty of wargames, board games, and role playing games. It provides a steady surface and I can work undisturbed as long as I avoid meal times. The main reason I shoot here is the natural light from the nearby windows. That light is supplemented with overhead lighting. I tend to get the best results when I shoot here during the day.

Skubb Laundry bag with stand from Ikea (white)
I admit that this is a quirky inclusion, but it works as an inexpensive light box, diffuser, and backdrop. Lay it on its side, place a couple of light sources around it, and position the subject inside. The white polyester material diffuses the light, providing even lighting around the subject. Place a strong light source inside the Skubb and it softens the light directed at the subject. I often just stand it up or lay it on its side behind the subject as a backdrop - it's the white background often seen in the photos on this blog. Finally, it folds up for easy storage when I'm not using it.

A quick vignette showing our well-loved gaming surface and the Skubb acting as a backdrop.

In Honorable Retirement

Canon PowerShot A3100IS
My first digital camera that didn't come with a phone attached. I got it around the time I started this blog, so it's elderly in technology terms. Most of the photos on this blog prior to last year were shot with this camera or using whatever phone I happened to own at the time. Both are valid options for anyone starting out, especially given the increasing quality of cameras that manufacturers are incorporating into smart phone designs these days. The only reason I moved past this camera was my desire to get into the settings and lens that a DSLR or mirrorless camera could offer. This camera is currently in storage.


The Current Stuff

Canon EOS Rebel T7i
This is not the best or latest camera, even when I purchased it last year. However, it has all the features I need at a price I could afford. Photography is a side hobby for me at this time. Breaking the bank on something moving up from "vague interest" to "hobby I do on the side of my other hobbies" just doesn't make any sense.

Canon EF-S 18-55mm IS STM
The kit lens that came with the Rebel is surprisingly good. It is versatile, produces sharp images, and comes with auto focus and image stabilization. I was even able to get pretty close to miniatures and other subjects for macro photography, but I did notice some distortion. It still sees use for the photos I take for this blog when I can't get good results otherwise. A good general purpose lens that I'll be hanging on to for awhile.

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM
Plenty of sources recommended this as the first prime lens when expanding beyond the kit lens. I can see why. I switched to this for most of the photos I take for this blog soon after getting it. I have to shoot from further away than with the kit lens, but using this lens has taught me about the effects of different aperture settings in macro photography. A nice lens at a reasonable price.

Lume Cube Panel Mini
Even with all the natural and artificial light available in my favorite spot, I still need a little extra from time to time. I bought this so I could stop dragging my desk lamp over every time the light wasn't quite right at the kitchen table. This is the first light source that I bought specifically for photography. It came in handy a couple of months ago during the four day blackout in this part of Texas. I also sometimes use it for lighting tasks around the house. Kinda pricey for what it is, but the ability to control the brightness and color temperature have been worth it.

Dinkum Systems ActionPod Pro
This is a camera mount at the end of a flexible arm held in place by a spring clamp. I mount the Rebel on the ActionPod, clamp it on the edge of the table, and adjust the arm until its in the position I need it to be in. Much quicker than dealing with tripod. It's strong enough to hold the Rebel without sagging and doesn't take up much space. More reasonably priced than many of the alternatives.

Hasslefree and Effigy - A Couple of Quick and Fun Photos

Two exploration teams encounter each other on the surface of a barren world.

I had a little fun the other day with these figures, a GW Moonscape Crater terrain piece, and my camera.

The Figures

After finishing all three figures in Hasslefree Miniatures' "Retro Sci-Fi Crew" set, I wanted to see how they went with some other figures using a similar paint scheme. The other figures are from the now defunct Effigy Miniatures' "Havoc Girls" set. I painted them a few years back using the division colors of a later generation of space explorers.

Both sets hit some of the same notes. They are both all woman teams. There's a member posing with her sidearm. Another member is equipped with a portable device, although one is a handheld scanner and the other has an input device on the arm and a display visor. Of course, the influences are different - 1960s for one and anime for the other.

The Havoc Girls set did serve as an Away Team in our Star Trek Adventures campaign. They may return to the table when play resumes. Or I might offer to go old school with the Hasslefree Miniatures set. I'll have to give it some thought.

The Terrain

The GW Moonscape Craters are coming in handy. A surprising number of sci-fi miniatures look better on a barren, blasted landscape. I had my misgivings about them, but they are holding up well.

The Camera

I'm hitting the limits of what I can do with my current camera gear - a Canon Rebel T7i, a kit lens, and a EF 50mm f/1.8 STM lens. An inexpensive tripod helps, but there is no way I can justify the expense of a macro lens just for taking photos of miniatures. I've got a set of extension tubes on the way - they attach to lens and change their focal length, allowing the lens to get closer to the subject. They might do the trick with the lenses I already own.

But that's enough fun with the camera for now. I've got miniatures to put some paint on.

Star Trek Adventures - Year by Year, Late 2372

This post continues an examination of established canon for the purpose of finding Star Trek Adventures story beats, mission ideas, and other game elements. Posts covering 2371 can be found here and here. A look at early 2372 is here and mid 2372 is here. Canon stardates (when available) and episode titles are provided. The main body of each entry is a summary of events and last part - in italics - are comments for the gamemaster.

Ambassador Troi Visits Deep Space Nine

No stardate given ("The Muse" - DS9)

Ambassador Lwaxana Troi, pregnant with her third child, visits Deep Space Nine. The father of the child, a Tavnian named Jeyal, arrives on the station to claim custody of the child. Lwaxana Troi annuls her marriage with Jeyal with the assistance of Constable Odo, who is able to make a convincing declaration of his love for her during a quickly arranged wedding ceremony. Lwaxana Troi dissolves her marriage to Odo before returning to Betazed.

This places Ambassador Troi in the Bajor Sector around this time. No canon information concerning her whereabouts after this episode or about her third child exists at the time of this writing. This is Majel Barrett Roddenberry's final on-screen appearance in a Star Trek production.


The Maquis Escalate Activities in the DMZ, Eddington Defects

No stardate given ("For the Cause" - DS9)

The Maquis have taken advantage of the Klingon invasion of the Cardassian Union to advance their agenda. They are operating with impunity in the DMZ and have constructed several new bases to support expanded operations. There is the real possibility that the Maquis could drive out the Cardassians from the DMZ entirely.

Lieutenant Commander Eddington reveals himself to be a member of the Maquis. He arranges for USS Defiant to be away from Deep Space Nine while he disappears on a Vulcan freighter with twelve class 4 industrial replicators intended for the Cardassian Union. In a related development, Kasidy Yates turns herself in for smuggling supplies to the Maquis. She serves a short prison sentence and is freed in 2373.

At this point, the last thing the Federation wants to see is more instability in the region. Unfortunately, there are few options available. The industrial replicators will likely end up supporting the expansion of Maquis operations in the DMZ. The Cardassians lack the military resources to oppose the Maquis. The Federation is unable to send starships into the DMZ under the terms of the treaty that created it. Starfleet may assign the player characters to infiltrate the DMZ covertly and see what can be done about the Maquis. Recovering or destroying some of the industrial replicators may slow the Maquis down.

Eddington's arc is a handy example of overhauling an element that's not working out. In the specific case of Eddington, DS9 retconned a fairly bland character into a more interesting one. Eddington was introduced as a straight-laced Starfleet professional. He provided a few moments of conflict here and there by not being as willing to bend the rules as the series regulars. He barely had a personality beyond that. After defecting to the Maquis, he became an antagonist that Sisko had a personal stake in capturing. He provided whole episodes of conflict by questioning and rebelling against what the series regulars stood for. If Eddington, Nog, or Rom had continued on the paths they were introduced with, they would all have been minor parts of the story told by DS9. By diverging from those paths, they became more memorable.


First Joint Federation-Dominion Military Operation

Stardate 49904.2 ("To the Death" - DS9)

USS Defiant participates in a joint operation with a small Dominion unit to destroy an Iconian gateway controlled by a group of renegade Jem'Hadar. The mission is a success, despite some friction between the Starfleet crew and Jem'Hadar soldiers.

Starfleet gains more insights on the Jem'Hadar, the Vorta, and the inner workings of the Dominion.

Iconian gateways could be discovered anywhere in the galaxy. Most are likely inoperative, but could be made functional again with the right equipment. A working Iconian gateway is an instant source of conflict. Starfleet is willing to condone destroying an Iconian gateway to keep it out of the control of a hostile group like the Romulan Star Empire or a renegade Jem'Hadar unit. Other interstellar polities are likely to show less restraint in response to an adversary acquiring one.

It might be possible for the discovery of an Iconian gateway to be concealed. Launching an invasion through it would give the game away, but using it to move covert operations teams around could be kept secret for awhile.

Starfleet operating a secret Iconian gateway might be an interesting campaign concept. It could feature teams exploring the worlds accessible beyond the gateway. However, that might end up resembling another sci-fi franchise a little too much.


USS Rio Grande Encounters Dominion Use of Biological Weapon on a Civilian Population in the Gamma Quadrant

No stardate given ("The Quickening" - DS9)

USS Rio Grande receives a distress signal while conducting a bio-survey mission in the Gamma Quadrant. The source of the signal is an automated beacon on a world near Dominion space. The planet - homeworld of the Teplans - was attacked by the Jem'Hadar two centuries prior after the Teplans resisted Dominion rule. Teplan civilization was wiped out and the population was infected with "the blight" - a viral disease. Doctor Bashir remains on the planet to find a cure for the blight after USS Rio Grande moves off to avoid a Jem'Hadar patrol. He learns that the blight is engineered to mutate and accelerate when exposed to the electromagnetic fields generated by modern medical equipment. This causes the deaths of Doctor Bashir's patients. However, he is able to deliver one patient's child prior to her death. In the process, he discovers that an antigen he had administered prevented the unborn child from contracting the blight. The antigen could not cure the existing Teplan population, but would function as a vaccine to eliminate the blight in future generations.

Here we see the Jem'Hadar deploying an engineered biological weapon against a civilian population to deter resistance to Dominion rule. Further Starfleet expeditions to the Gamma Quadrant may encounter similar situations.

In "Inter Arma Enim Silent Leges" (DS9 7x16), Doctor Bashir gives a lecture on the blight at a joint Federation-Romulan conference on Romulus. Tal Shiar chairman Koval asks about weaponizing the blight further.



USS Defiant Travels to New Founder Homeworld, Klingon Empire Invades the Archanis Sector


Stardate 49962.4 ("Broken Link" - DS9)

The Founders allow USS Defiant to journey to their new homeworld for Constable Odo to join the Great Link. The Great Link passes judgment on Odo for killing another Changeling - he is transformed into a Human. USS Defiant returns to Deep Space Nine without further incident. The coordinates of the new Founder homeworld remains unknown to the Federation - the navigation systems of USS Defiant remained under Dominion control for the duration of the mission.

Chancellor Gowron escalates tensions between the Klingon Empire and Federation by refusing to return captured Cardassian territories and demanding that the Federation withdraw from the Archanis sector. Federation colonies near the Klingon border call for a preemptive strike, but are ignored. A short time later, Gowron announces that a Klingon task force is being deployed to the Archanis sector. Any Federation stations or ships there when the task force arrives will be destroyed. This is effectively a declaration of war.

Starfleet receives intelligence suggesting that Gowron has been replaced by a Founder.

The situation between the Federation and the Klingon Empire escalates to open warfare. Fighting breaks out from the Archanis sector to the Bajor sector. The Klingons have the initiative and the Federation's defenses are only able to slow their advance. However, Klingon forces fail to simply overrun Starfleet and threaten the heart of the Federation as they did in previous conflicts. This may reflect changes in Starfleet tactical doctrine in response to the Battle of Wolf 359.