Preparing a Classic D&D Module for OSE

Running D&D module B4 The Lost City in Old School Essentials was a success. Our group enjoyed a slightly revamped version of a classic adventure. And only a couple of player characters died! I can't say that Zargon and his cult were happy with the outcome, but they got what was coming to them. I credit the experience to a good group, my ability to improvise whenever players do the unexpected (which is all the time), and the efforts I made beforehand.

A gamemaster's homework is never done.

Step 1: Read the Darn Thing

It doesn't matter if it's the first time or the hundredth time. No notes. No highlighting. Just go through the whole thing and get familiar with the contents. What are all the pieces and how do they fit together? What stands out? What works and what won't land with this particular group of players? What doesn't fit with how I like to run things at our table? What is so iconic that any alterations would only lead to bitterness and despair? None of these questions can be answered without knowing what's in the adventure.


Step 2: What Changes?

Outside of the occasional one shot, adventure modules aren't played in isolation. They have to fit into existing campaigns. In this case, the Nostalgia Tour concept. The Lost City couldn't overstay its welcome or it would push out another classic module. I needed to wrap it up by the time the player characters reached third level and were ready for the next module.

I originally wrote a bunch of details on the changes I made, but that turned into a whole thing. The changes and the thinking behind them will be presented in that mythical time we call later.

(EDIT: Later turned out to be a week and half down the road. Here's a post about all the changes I made: Remodeling B4 The Lost City.)


Step 3: Attack the Module with a Highlighter

Classic adventure modules weren't exactly masterworks of organization. The need to present information to the GM by embracing the tools to technical writing - bolded text, bullet points, and otherwise separating out critical statements from a body of text - wasn't fully identified until more recently. Since there's no way to add these features to an existing module with rewriting it, I used a highlighter to make key information stand out.

I'd be squeamish about marking up a vintage module this way. Even a damaged copy is still a decades old document at this point. Fortunately, I was able to avoid the issue with a print on demand copy from DTRPG.

Here are examples of the kind of information I highlighted:

• How the traps are supposed to work. What does a player character do to trigger the trap? What happens when the trap is triggered?
• Reactions for monster encounters. What do they do when they encounter the party? Otherwise, I rolled on the reaction table.
• Motivations for NPC encounters. What does this NPC want from the party? How do they respond based on the reaction roll?
• Treasures and other loot. This information was sometimes buried in the room descriptions.
• Key historical facts. The Lost City has a backstory relevant to the adventure. I wanted to keep the critical details handy.

Step 4: List Making

Although a highlighter makes critical information easier to find, I wanted to have some things at my fingertips. Lists make it possible to reference certain things without having to flip back and forth through the module.

Examples of my lists:

• Static monster encounters. The rooms and the bags of XP dwelling within them organized by room number. It worked as a checklist of what the party ran into as they moved through the dungeon. I included each monster's page number in the OSE Referee's Tome for easy reference. This made it handy during combat and for calculating XP in between sessions. Easily the list I used the most.
• Wandering monster encounters. Includes the page numbers of each wandering monster table from the module. As with the static monster encounter list, I also included each monster's page number in the OSE Referee's Tome. Not as useful as I expected. The dice were not cooperating and I didn't roll as many wandering monsters as I expected.
• Trap encounters. Room numbers and a description of the traps within them. Having the information in one place wasn't as useful as I expected. The work I put in with the highlighter was enough for me to find the information when I needed it.
• NPC encounters. Statistics, descriptions, significant items, and spell lists for encounters that might result in talking, fighting, or some combination of both. The descriptions of some groups are spread throughout the module. Compiling them in one place saved some time during play. It also helped me keep the names straight.
• Cynidicean encounters. The inhabitants of the titular lost city have their own sub-table in this module's wandering monster tables. Since I needed to convert them to OSE anyway, I retyped the (converted) statistics and descriptions on a handy reference document.

Step 5: Old School Essentials Conversion

Although OSE is based on Basic D&D, certain things required adaptation. Most of the monsters have statistics in OSE, but the ones unique to B4 The Lost City needed work. The biggest issue involved our group's decision to go with ascending armor class as an option. All things considered, the conversion process was easy. Converting an AD&D module to OSE might involve more time and effort. I'll be burning that bridge later in the Nostalgia Tour campaign.

D&D Beholder Miniature Rebasing

I was reminded of a problem with this Beholder miniature after using it on the thumbnail for the "The AD&D Monster Manual (1979) A - Z: Episode 3: "B - Baboon to Beholder"" video. Basically, the material used for the base is too soft for the job.

Replacing the base was a quick and fun project. This video provides an overview of the process.

Tutorial - On Prepping Reaper Bones

Something that comes up in every post about painting a Reaper Bones miniature is describing how I prepare it beforehand. I don't want to skip or gloss over the details - it's potentially valuable information for anyone unfamiliar with the plastic used in earlier Bones figures. On the other hand, there's a fair number of steps involved and I don't want spend too much time on them every time I publish a Bones post. It gets repetitive. And I'm running out of ways to rephrase the information.

This post describes the process that works best for me. It is partly the result of information I found online - credit and links to those sources are provided. I came by the rest the old fashioned way - trial and error.

Note that this process is specific to the white plastic used in earlier Bones miniatures such as those from the first Kickstarter. I don't currently have any experience with the light grey plastic used in more recent Bones figures manufactured in the USA or the dark grey plastic in Reaper's Bones Black line. I'll be learning how to work with those materials when I get to those parts of my collection.


Cleaning

My first step with any model is a through scrubbing in warm soap and water. No special detergents or tools - just dishwashing soap and a toothbrush with firm bristles. The residue from manufacturing can remain on Bones miniatures even after a long period of storage. A good cleaning removes it along with any skin oils from handling.

Reaper Bones miniatures after gluing them on to washer bases, before brushing on primer mix.

Steel Fender Washer

I keep a stack of one inch steel fender washers that I previously spray primed around for Bones and other plastic miniatures. Gluing a washer to the underside of the integral base of a Bones miniature keeps it from falling over on the table. The extra weight and wider base adds stability, but the washer is thin enough not to add too much height to the figure. I got the idea from Chris Palmer at All Bones About It, who is much further along with his Bones collection than I am. Blending the integral base with the flat surface of the washer is a process I describe further below.


Priming

Brushing on FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium is recommended in this post on the Reaper forums. Some folks have good results from painting directly on the plastic, but I had issues when I tried that approach. I've also had fair, but workable results from using Liquitex Matte Medium whenever I've run out of FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium. It didn't seem to hold the paint as well, requiring an additional coat to get good coverage.

Since both mediums are clear and difficult to see on the white plastic, I add a few drops of paint to see what parts of the figure are coated. Another benefit is that the paint tends to collect in the recesses, making the details easier for me to see. I use either a brown or black paint, based on what colors I'm planning to use on the figure.

I avoid using spray paints or primers on Bones miniatures. The results from the one time I tried were poor. The surface of that miniature never got better, even after I plowed ahead and painted over the spray paint. "Rolf" ended up in the recycle bin when even a long soak in Simple Green didn't fix the problem.

After brushing on primer mix. This is usually the step when I discover all the details - including the mold lines I missed.

Base Texturing

I typically finish a Bones miniature by mixing some PVA glue, brown craft paint, and just enough water to improve the flow. The mix gets brushed over the surface of the integral base and the washer. Then I sprinkle enough sand to provide texture and blend both surfaces together.

I used to brush on PVA glue and water to hold the sand in place, wait for it to dry, then apply the brown paint. Adding the paint to the watered down glue streamlines the process.

The final step happens after the mix has dried completely and the sand is securely in place. I dry brush some light tan or linen colored craft paint over the sand. How much depends on the results I'm after - a little to simulate dry earth, more to give the base a sandy appearance.


The above goes into the process I use with Bones miniatures in much more detail than anything I've presented previously. I'll be linking to this post in future posts featuring Reaper Bones miniatures.