30 Minutes Missions Alto Option Kits by Bandai - First Impressions

This post continues a look at 30 Minutes Missions. The previous post with my first impressions of the Alto itself can be found by clicking this link. Here I'm examining two of the options kits available for the Alto.

Original recipe Alto compared with optional face plate, shoulder armor, and chest armor.

The option kits came as a bundle when I ordered the Dark Gray Alto on Amazon. Frankly, I'm not sure if I would go that route again. The cost of the bundle was only slightly cheaper than ordering the items from an import site like Hobbylink Japan. It also took about the same amount of time to ship. On the other hand, the bundle did have matching colors for the Alto and Option Armor kit, so that's nice.

Both kits are made specifically for the Alto. This makes sense for the armor, since the parts have to fit the shape of the model. However, I'm not sure why the weapons wouldn't work with other models. They are mostly handheld or fit on parts that should be universal within the 30MM line.

As before, I cut the parts off the runners and assembled them without any further tidying up.

Rosie examines the Alto's knee while Sarah looks on.

Option Armor for Long Range Sniping (Alto Exclusive/Dark Gray)

This kit comes in a bag containing the instructions and a single runner. A little disappointing, but the kit is only a couple of bucks USD before factoring shipping costs. Given the prices I've seen for a similar amount of plastic in the form a single miniature, that's not bad.

Shield option attached to the arm and shoulder.

The runner has parts for:

• A replacement face plate. It pulls off the appearance of some kind of telescopic sensor array, which fits the "Long Range Sniping" theme. A sticker for the lens would have been nice - I'll have to see about painting it sometime.
• Replacement armor plates for the chest and shoulders. These are more beefy than the ones that came with the Alto. I'm not sure why a sniper would need additional protection in these areas. The shoulder parts don't seem to have the snug fit of the originals - they pop off more easily.
• A shield that can attach to an arm or shoulder. I'm not sure why a sniper mecha would need a shield that looks like it could double as a melee weapon. Maybe I'm not part of the intended market for these things?

The chest and shoulder armor, combined with the shield, offers up the appearance of a brawler rather than a sniper. The original Alto face plate works to complete the close in fighter look. The sniper face plate works well with the Alto's original armor plating.

Roy Roy drone undergoing trials while an evaluation team in light duty vacc suits looks on.

Option Weapon 1 for Alto

This kit comes in a small box holding a pair of runners. The variety of parts offers a satisfying selection of firearms and melee weapons.

Submachine gun, assault rifle, and long rifle with telescopic sight and grip.

The choice of firearms starts with a duplicate of the submachine gun included in the Alto kit. The other firearm parts attach to the pistol grip/receiver of the submachine gun, replacing the short submachine gun barrel with one resembling an assault rifle with an underslung grenade launcher or a long barrel suitable for precision shooting. There are also two sights available - the one that come with the submachine gun (resembling a reflex sight) and a larger one that looks like a telescopic sight. Finally, there is  grip that can be attached to the side of either rifle.

Empty hand, stabby hand replacement, axe hand replacement. I tried the sword, but it just looked silly.

The melee weapons are based on the knuckle weapon included in the Alto kit, using it as a handle/hand guard. A duplicate of the knuckle weapon appears in this kit, allowing for dual wielding. The melee options include a combat knife, axe, and sword. They can be attached to the knuckle weapon or to a part that replaces a hand. There is also a shaft that can be combined with the melee options to create a variety of polearms.

Axe and sword attached to the polearm shaft.

Something I Forgot from the Last Post - The Roy Roy

This is a small robot that comes with the Alto kit. Not including it in my previous post was an oversight on my part. It works as a drone for either 15mm or 28mm scale. The body of the Roy Roy can be attached to the top of the Alto as an insectoid looking head alternative.

Roy Roy and Roy Roy head.

The option kits make the Alto more versatile, allowing it to be customized to better fit a particular role or setting. Combining the chest and shoulder armor with a submachine gun and melee weapon makes the Alto into a nifty close combat unit. Of course, outfitting giant stompy robots with pointy and stabby things doesn't fit every setting. In Battletech, for example, melee weapons for 'Mechs exist, but are an unusual design choice compared with guns, energy weapons, and missiles. However, 30MM is clearly more inspired by settings like Gundam, which feature melee weapons as standard issue for mobile suits. It really depends on the game - a giant robot with an equally big sword fits right into some, but is over the top for others.

I wasn't kidding about the look of the sword hand replacement.

The various guns should fit into a wider variety of settings. There are enough parts to build a pair of submachine guns, if dual wielding isn't just too much for the game in question. The assault rifle is a good choice to give the Alto the look of an infantryman. The long rifle with the sensor face plate sends the message that something in the neighboring time zone is going to get an unwelcome surprise. Again, it depends on the game.

Brigade Models B15-1001 15mm SF Bunker

This is another product that I bought ages ago, stored away during my tabletop gaming interregnum, and rediscovered while looking for something else. I decided on a paint scheme just in time for weeks of rain and humidity levels too high for spray painting. My patience was rewarded once I was able to get started - the work was quick. Unlike much of my unfinished product pile, this is actually still available for purchase from the manufacturer.

The curved appearance of the bunker puts certain Star Wars visuals in mind. Not the sharp edges of Imperial design, of course. Rather, the rounded architecture seen on some planets away from the core - places like Tatooine and Naboo.

This product comes in two pieces - the main body and a cover. The main body includes a sculpted interior including floor grating and steps down to the entrance. The other piece is a simple round cover for the interior. The two pieces do not lock into each other - there is nothing holding the cover on the main body.

Sanding
The bunker is cast resin and needed some sanding to remove some rough edges and flash. There is also some chipping near the bunker entrance, but it's not particularly noticeable when the piece is sitting on the table. Besides, it adds to the worn look I was going for. I also roughed up the surfaces of the piece due to concerns about the paint bonding to the smooth resin. I wore a respirator during the sanding process, having been warned about inhaling resin dust awhile back.

Cleaning
The next step involved soap, warm water, and a brush. Taking the time to clean what I'm working on is a habit for me at this point.

Spray Painting - First Layer
I sprayed the underside of both pieces and the interior of the main body with Krylon COLORmaxx Paint + Primer in Flat Black. I was planning on a dark gray or metallic for the interior, so black works well as an undercoat. The goal of painting the undersides is simply to put down a layer to protect the resin.

Spray Painting - Second Layer
The base color for the bunker is Krylon Camouflage Ultra-Flat Khaki. A sandy color isn't unusual for a concrete surface, especially one that's been exposed to the outside for awhile. Besides, I've been on enough military bases - mostly American - to know that khaki is a common color for buildings like the bunker.

Interior
The floor got a coat of FolkArt 2561 Steel Gray brushed over the black Krylon. I applied some Craft Smart Premium Wax Silver Metallic Finish over the gray paint to give the floor a hint of metallic shine.

Wash Layer
I still have a bottle of black wash that I mixed for a long-ago project. It's come in handy for terrain projects like this one. I applied a layer of wash over all of the interior surfaces and allowed it to pool. The floor is deeply textured with a grate pattern and I wanted the wash to settle into it. I also brushed a layer of wash over the exterior of the bunker, but I wiped off the excess to prevent pooling on those surfaces.

The bunker is a hefty piece of solid resin. It will likely hold up well to handling, but I'm reluctant to subject it to an unplanned drop test. The interior is a nice touch and holds a fair number of 15mm miniatures - the exact count depends on the size of their bases. It was a good value at $12 USD when I purchased it and is a better deal now, although shipping costs may offset currency exchange rates.

30 Minutes Missions EEMX-17 Alto (Dark Gray) by Bandai - First Impressions

I purchased this model kit to see how it looks with 15mm scale miniatures. Also, building scale models is something I've been wanting to get back into and big stompy robots are as a good place to start as any. This is an initial look with general product information, a description of the build process, and a few comments on its potential for tabletop gaming. I also have a couple of accessory kits for this model that I plan on featuring in a follow up post.

Alto covering 15mm "Earth Exploration Team" members.

Bandai's 30 Minutes Missions (30MM) line is intended as a starting point for getting into Gundam models. The kits in this line are priced lower than comparable Gundam models since they aren't tied to that franchise and its associated licensing fees. A selling point of 30MM is the relative speed and ease of assembling a kit without sacrificing quality.

Bandai created its own lore for 30MM, based around an alien invasion. I'm not versed in Gundam lore, but I have picked up the broad strokes of the franchise over the decades it's been around. Even I can recognize that the Alto is loosely based on the concept of the GM - a mass produced unit deployed in quantity by an Earth-based military against a threat from space.

30MM is named for the amount of time it's supposed to take to assemble a kit. I took closer to an hour. Inexperience played a role, but I also found myself going slow to savor the process. Note that I still need to clean up the nubs left from clipping off the parts.

Close up of backpack. Note the holes where accessories can be attached and the melee weapon in the left hand.

The sprues (or runners) are laid out intuitively. Each runner holds parts of a particular color or type of plastic. Parts that go together on the model are grouped together on the runners. This reduces the need to squint and hunt for parts spread around a runner.

I choose the dark gray and black color scheme as something that would be plausible for a unit with a low observable coating. Military colors - green and tan - are available. These also come in brighter colors. I'm tempted to get the Alto's counterpart - the Portanova - in red or blue. I may see how well the plastic takes spray primer and paint sometime down the road.

Trying a more daring pose to test the articulation.

Although the Alto is a 1/144 scale model, it works well enough with 15mm miniatures using an eyeball comparison. It looks like there should be just enough space for a cockpit big enough for a 15mm scale pilot in the chest. It might be a tight squeeze, though - certainly not as roomy as some mecha cockpits I've seen in various media. I'll have to dig out more of my 15mm collection for further comparison.

Of course, the whole issue of "where's the cockpit?" can be dodged by declaring it a remotely piloted or AI controlled drone. That might be enough justification to make it work with 28mm scale miniatures. It might work as a major threat to a band of adventurers in a sci-fi RPG game.

The Alto is well articulated and stays in a pose without "drooping" - at least, when the joints are new. There is a good amount of detail, considering that this is supposed to be a starter model. The holes are attachment points for additional parts. That offers the ability to customize the model for a particular role - sniper, command vehicle, close combat variant, etc. Two option kits came in the bundle that I ordered - I'll post a follow up after I get a chance to assemble and play around with them.

Out of My Wheelhouse - Bandai Hobby HG 1/144 #39 Ptolemaios Arms "Gundam Build Divers"

This kit caught my attention while shopping around on Amazon. It looked like it had potential as a "ship of the week" for games like Star Trek Adventures and as a miniature for spaceship combat games. Eaglemoss Star Trek ship models look great on the tabletop, but the price tag means that I only use them for the player characters' ship and those operated by major gamemaster characters. Wizkids offers less expensive options, but I've run into scaling issues. This model would fit a lower technology culture - either pre-warp or early warp drive. For spaceship combat games - well, it's always nice to have more variety on the tabletop.

I'm not familiar with Gundam or Gunpla, so I have no idea what anything on the box means.

I'm not a Gundam fan, but I gather that this ship - the Ptolemaios or Ptolemy - is a mothership that first appeared in Mobile Suit Gundam 00. The ship also made a cameo appearance in Gundam Build Drivers. This model kit is part of the Gundam Build Drivers line. And that's a far as I'm willing to research. The last thing I need is another long running series to binge watch while painting miniatures.

Ptolemaios encounters USS Thunderchild. The Starfleet crew advises caution around cube shaped spaceships.

The main selling point of this kit is how it can be broken down into its components. These are intended to be attached to other 1/144 scale Gundam models to customize their appearance. My interest is using them to depict smaller spacecraft on the tabletop. There are four easily removed components on the main body that resemble shuttles or transports. The completed model is about four inches long and the shuttle components are about an inch in length. I'll need to experiment to see how the engine sections and main body can be reconfigured.

Shuttles detached!

Building the kit was a pleasure. Everything in the box came neatly sorted and bagged. The instructions were clear enough, but I did end up squinting at a couple of things until what I was supposed to do finally clicked. All of the parts fit smoothly and cleanly. There was no need to force or "convince" them together. I completed the build in about 45 minutes, but that's largely due to my taking my time and my inexperience with this kind of model kit. There are even a few unused parts left on the sprues - additions to my bits collection are always welcome!

Still a few morsels left on these bones.

Ptolemaios is shown here without paint, wash, or panel lining. I also have to go back and clean up the bubs left from cutting the parts off the sprues. Spray priming and painting will have to wait until the humidity dies down around here.

The one thing I don't like about this kit is the lack of a stand. I'm aware that this is common to Gunpla, but it's still annoying. I had to improvise a stand with a clear plastic cup for the photos in this post. Maybe I'll hunt down a compatible stand for Ptolemaios sometime.

Ptolemaios encounters a cube shaped spaceship.

The cost of this kit varies. It retails in Japan for the equivalent of about $8 USD. However, importing the kit adds considerably to the overall price - doubling it in some cases. I opted to pay $15 USD on Amazon, but that's with free shipping.

Reaper Bones 77142 Townsfolk: Blacksmith

I did what I always seem to do when I want to knock out a quick Saturday morning painting project - reach for where I store the figures I received from the first Reaper Bones Kickstarter. Not wanting to fall into a rut, I avoided the fantasy adventurers and monsters that make up the majority of my collection. This figure is one of the "Townsfolk" figures included in the Bones line.

A blacksmith would likely be wearing a leather apron while working hot metal. With brown already being a big part of the paint scheme, I challenged myself by sticking with neutral colors. It didn't seem likely to me that a blacksmith would wear his best and brightest clothes while working.

Cleaning
Painful experience taught me that a through cleaning pays off with Bones miniatures. A firm toothbrush, warm soap and water, and a little elbow grease goes a long way towards avoiding issues later on.

Basing
The relatively small integral bases and light weight material result in many Bones figures falling over during play. The weight and wider area added by gluing a one inch steel fender washer to the bottom of the integral base gives the figure much more stability. I spray prime the washers in batches beforehand for convenience.

Priming
The usual mix of FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium and a base color paint - brown in this case - brushed over the entire figure.

Skin
I'm growing to like Reaper 09260 Bronzed Skin. The color is a yellow-brown rather than the light brown of Reaper 09044 Tanned Skin and works well with a brown wash. I'm not planning on using either paint as a replacement for the other. Both have their uses and I enjoy having more options.

Hair and Tools
Citadel Colour Codex Grey is the base color of the figure's hair and metal tools.

Clothing
Reaper 09284 Lonestar Leather is turning into my first choice for worn leather or brown cloth. I followed it up by brushing Reaper 09110 Oiled Leather over the raised areas as a highlight.

Wood
I wanted a darker brown for the tree stump that the anvil is sitting on and the handles of the hand tools. Reaper 09028 Muddy Brown provides a good contrast with the lighter browns used for the clothing.

Washes
Originally, I was planning to use Army Painter Warpaints Quickshade Dark Tone only on the grey painted areas. However, I needed deeper shading everywhere, so I ended up brushing it over the entire figure. That was followed by a coat of Army Painter Warpaints Quickshade Strong Tone.

Basing
The usual mix of sand, PVA glue, brown paint, and water to texture and blend the integral base and the steel fender washer together. I skipped brushing on a lighter color paint over the sand since I didn't want there to be too much contrast been the base and the figure.

This was a fast and fun project. A blacksmith is a staple inhabitant of any per-industrial village or town, so this figure seemed to be a good place to start on the "Townsfolk" figures. They are a refreshing change from the usual fantasy figure.

Pegasus Hobbies Technobridge

This is the Technobridge from Pegasus Hobbies. This is a "classic" product that I've been saving as quick and easy project. It's a relatively simple challenge that's still satisfying to finish.

Assembled and painted Technobridge with packaging.

The Technobridge is sold by Pegasus Hobbies as part of their Museum Models Collection. In spite of that, this product is clearly marketed for a certain miniatures wargame set in a grimdark future where there is only screaming, swinging weaponized chainsaws, and shooting at things. I've seen this product around since at least the early 2000s, but the packaging lacks any copyright information.

No written instructions are included, but putting together the twelve parts in the box is straightforward. Clean up took longer than assembly. There were some pegs to be cut off and a small amount of flash that needed the attention of a craft knife. The parts snap together using tabs and slots. The bridge surface is composed of two flat sections and two sloped ends. Eight parts make up the railings - four straight and four sloped to go on the ends. The box states that glue is "recommended, but not required." The parts fit together tightly enough for a display piece, but this particular bridge is destined to serve on the tabletop. I followed the recommendation and glued my bridge together.

Close up of Technobridge details and underside. How the parts join together can be seen on the right. I'm not sure why the bottom is detailed with rivets.

When the weather finally cleared enough to permit it, I reached for the rattle cans and went to work. The first coat is Krylon Camouflage Ultra-Flat Black. It provides a non-reflective surface and doesn't need primer when used on plastic. I followed that up with a coat of Krylon ColorMaster Paint + Primer Metallic Silver. I wanted a patchy, weathered look, so I didn't spray for complete coverage. A layer of dark wash accents the worn appearance. Experience taught me that washes tend to bead when applied directly on some Krylon paints. I used a sponge to wipe away the excess to prevent this and provide some streaking to suggest the direction of traffic over the bridge. The final touch is a little Craft Smart Premium Wax Silver Metallic Finish applied with a cloth to highlight some of the raised areas.

The assembled piece forms a raised arch that seems study enough to support large plastic models. The packaging mentions "Dirt Plunderer battle tanks" to give an idea of what models were in mind when it went to market. The plastic seems thick enough for regular handling, but I'm not looking forward to the improvised drop tests that occur during play.

Rosie directs a pair of oversized droids across the Technobridge.

The packaging gives the dimensions as "12 3/32" long x 7 3/32" wide" for a single assembled Technobridge. The packaging also mentions that the modular design allows multiple kits to be assembled into a longer structure. I'm not sure if I would go further than doubling the length. More than that and I would have concerns about how much weight it could support.

The industrial appearance of the Technobridge means that it should fit in a variety of settings ranging from sci-fi to steampunk. Although it was made with 28mm figures in mind, it could be used for 15mm games as long as nobody looks at the size of the rivets too closely. At $16 USD retail, it offers good value considering the versatility of the product.

Side view with 28mm Reaper Miniatures figure provided for scale. 

I had a fun time putting the Technobridge together and painting it up. It's fairly straightforward project and sometimes that just what I need to get me back on track.

Reaper Bones 77057 Juliette, Female Sorceress

Juliette - 77057 of Reaper's Bones line - might have the least inspired title for a miniature that I've run across. "Female Sorceress" seems redundant, at least. In any case, this is another figure from the first Reaper Bones Kickstarter.

Juliette in her natural environment - a dungeon grid.

The color scheme I used for this figure is inspired by the Erol Otus cover for the 1981 Dungeons and Dragons Basic Set. That product has a special place in my heart - it was my ticket into tabletop gaming. Something about Juliette reminded me of the woman spell caster depicted on that cover. Maybe I'll keep more classic gaming artwork in mind for future projects.

Cleaning
As always, I start with a through scrubbing with a stiff brush and warm soap and water. It removes any residue from manufacturing or handling that might cause issues during the painting process.

Basing
Gluing a spray primed steel fender washer to the integral base gives the figure more stability. The lightweight Bones miniatures have a habit of falling over without this step.

Priming
I choose a mix of FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium and Reaper 09028 Muddy Brown this time around. Brown makes a good underlayer for the skin, hair, and accessory colors. It also works well with red, which doesn't always coat well over a coat of grey or black.

Skin
Reaper 09047 Fair Skin is a reliable way of putting a pale skin tone on a miniature.

Three quarters view.

Hair
The Reaper 09257 Blond Hair I used on Juliette produces a bright golden hair color. I might experiment with adding a little white for a platinum blond in a future project. For a darker, honey blond, Reaper 09074 Palomino Gold works well, but I wanted the hair to stand out from the dress.

Clothing
I used two coats of paint for the red dress. Reaper 09278 Gory Red provides a dark base color. Reaper 09279 Fresh Blood was used as a highlight color.

Accessories
The corset, boots, and belt were all painted in Reaper 09284 Lonestar Leather. I tried going for a glass effect for the bottles on Juliette's belt, but I didn't like the results and painted over it. Besides, any glass containers should be protected by pouches during a dungeon delve.

Washes
I applied a layer of Secret Weapon W005 Flesh Wash over the entire figure. It worked well on the hair, skin, and accessories, but may have darkened the dress a little too much. To correct for this, I tried a coat of Secret Weapon W025 Just Red on the dress.

Basing
I used a little sand to texture the steel washer base and blend it with the integral base. The combined base elements were painted with FolkArt 231 Real Brown followed by a dry brushing with FolkArt 420 Linen. This produces the look of dry or sandy ground.

Rear view. Somebody downrange is receiving a magic missile.

The dress turned out darker than I intended, but I like how it contrasts with the rest of the figure. Since I planned out similar color schemes for both figures, I painted Juliette at the same time as Hasslefree Miniatures HFSF202 Lt Thoran. Many of the same paints were used for both figures, but the reds turned out a little different due to the washes I used.

Hasslefree Miniatures HFSF202 LT Thoran

This is LT Thoran - a figure is from Hasslefree Miniatures' line of original power armored sci-fi troopers. The line currently contains eight figures, including one of Merys Thoran in an earlier phase of her career. I purchased a couple figures from the line as test pieces. I figured that I could get the rest later if the first ones worked out.

Front view. I'm thinking she looks a little startled.

I mulled over possible paint schemes for awhile before deciding on dark red for the armor. Grey has been done better than I can manage. I was concerned that the figure's details might get a little lost with a metallic paint. The blood red armor is inspired by the color scheme I used for Commander Shepherd during my Mass Effect play-through.

Cleaning
Starting with a good scrubbing with a brush and warm soap and water removes any manufacturing residue.

Basing
I glued the tab of the miniature into the slot of a Reaper 30mm round plastic base, leaving space between the bottom of the figure's feet and the base. This prevents the figure's nicely sculpted boots from getting buried by the sand I use for texturing the base in a later step.

Priming
Having run out of auto body primer, I used Krylon Krylon COLORmaxx Paint + Primer in Matte Deep Gray.

Underlayer
I've gotten poor results from painting skin tones and red directly over grey primer. This time, I experimented with a coat of Formula P3 Menoth White Base over the entire figure. It provides a good base for skin tones and I hoped it would do the same for the red armor.

Skin
Reaper 09047 Fair Skin works reliably to produce pale skin, especially over a coat of brown or Formula P3 Menoth White Base. A coat of Secret Weapon W005 Flesh Wash brought out the figure's facial features.

Side view. I had to straighten the rifle a little before priming, but that's not unexpected for a metal miniature.

Hair
I purchased a bottle of Reaper 09257 Blond Hair recently and decided to give it a try. It's lighter than the Reaper 09074 Palomino Gold I usually use, which might have been a better choice for this figure. I applied a layer of Secret Weapon W005 Flesh Wash to slightly darken the color and accentuate the hair texture.

Armor
The base color for the armor is Reaper 09278 Gory Red. Reaper 09279 Fresh Blood was used as highlight.

Weapon and Armor Details
I used Citadel Codex Grey for the weapon, armor joints, boot soles, and helmet visor. The neutral color contrasts with the red armor without standing out too much.

Weapon and Armor Wash
Next came a coat of Secret Weapon W001 Soft Body Black Wash over the armor and accessories. This darkened the reds and greys as well as bringing out the details.

Basing
Not everyone likes sand - it's coarse and rough and gets everywhere - but it works well to texture a base with a mix of glue, FolkArt 231 Real Brown paint, and water to hold it in place. I forgot to tape the bottom of the base to keep the sand mix from flowing around the hole between the tab and slot. That resulted in a gap appearing in the sand texturing. I resolved the issue by gluing a small rock over the gap. I brushed a little FolkArt 420 Linen over the sand to simulate the appearance of dry or sandy soil.

Rear view.

This is the fourth Hasslefree miniature I've completed and I had a fun time with all of them. They are detailed enough to be challenging, but not intimidating for my current skill level. I'm looking forward to beginning the next one!

Let's Talk About the Weather - Rain

It's been unseasonably wet in these parts lately. Which has put a crimp on my plans to spray primer and paint on the projects I have in the pipeline. On the other hand, it's inspired me to discuss how rain can complicate things in a wargame scenario or roleplaying encounter.

Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay.

Not every battle happens in ideal weather conditions. Opportunities and objectives don't wait for it to be nice outside. Sometimes the sky opens up on what seemed to be a calm day. And there are those tacticians who favor taking action when their opponents are exercising the sane option of staying indoors when it's raining cats and dogs.

Let's paint a scene and break down how each factor introduced by a rain storm can be gamed out:

The day looked nice and sunny until the clouds rolled in. The rain and dim light drained the color out of everything. Things at a distance were concealed by the grey mist and darkness, only glimpsed at when the lightning flashed. The sound of steady rain hitting every surface masked every noise except for the occasional peal of thunder. Anything could have been moving through the trees and buildings without fear of being heard or spotted. Footing was unsure in the thick mud. Soaked clothes and the dampness make even the most disciplined minds miserable and sloppy. Too much time spent in the cold and wet invited illness. Only those with keen wits, sharp senses, and reckless abandon would seek battle in these conditions.

Image by enriquelopezgarre from Pixabay.

Visibility

The rain, mists forming from the rain striking the terrain, and the lack of sunlight all reduce visibility. Many games have rules for fighting in low light conditions. Use those to model the limited visibility of a heavy storm.

Clouds and steady rain might impose penalties equivalent to dim lighting.
Complete cloud cover combined with a heavy downpour might impose penalties equal to night.
Actual nighttime lighting conditions combined with rain may impose penalties equal to complete darkness.

The mist and rain tends to conceal things at a distance. There might be sight and spotting penalties at longer ranges.

A flash of lightning offers the equivalent of full daylight, but only for an instant. This is enough to spot something or take a snap shot, but not for a slow scan of the surroundings or a carefully aimed attack.

Keen senses and advanced sensory equipment can mitigate some of the effects of a heavy storm, but not negate them. Thermal imaging, for example, is negatively impacted by humidity. Penalties might be reduced, but not removed entirely.

Image by marmax from Pixabay.

Noise

The noise of rain hitting the ground and every horizontal surface drowns out the sound of anything else. Expressing this mechanically depends on the system. Some might grant a bonus to stealthy movement while other may impose a penalty to dice tests involving hearing.

Movement noises - footsteps, pushing through foliage, heavy breathing - will be masked by the sound of rainfall.

Characters may have to raise their voices to be understood in heavy rain. Whispering would be impractical and passing notes depends on the light available. The sound of someone shouting to be heard could give away their presence.

Slick Surfaces and Mud

The risk of slipping on wet surfaces like concrete or stone can be represented with dice tests or a minor movement penalty. Failed checks result in a loss of movement distance (representing a slip and time to regain balance) or a fall (imposed on a critical failure - results are a complete stop and minor damage if the the fall is especially nasty).

An inch or so of slick mud can be handled like a wet surface. Deeper mud presents the problem of getting stuck. A failed movement test may result in the model or character halting in place until a follow up test to get freed is passed.

Image by StockSnap from Pixabay.

Flooding

Flash floods are a danger in low lying areas, forcing rapid repositioning to avoid the threat. Likewise, streams and rivers may overflow their banks and carry away the unwary. Roads may become inaccessible as they become submerged. Vehicles risk becoming losses if they attempt to cross a flooded section of road.

Morale Effects

Dealing with discomfort of cold rainwater and thick mud can bring down the mood of all but the most highly motivated individuals. This could justify a small morale penalty. Dice tests could be be required for taking actions that potentially make things worse - a patrol on foot through muddy areas, standing guard during a storm, etc. Failure could result in shirking as the individuals effected take shelter from the storm rather than carry out their duties.

Health Effects

Prolonged exposure to severe weather events tend to increase the chance of getting sick. Not all game systems model illness, but a small penalty to represent a head cold (or equivalent) might be imposed for individuals left out in the rain for too long.

Image by MICHOFF from Pixabay.

I hope that this shows how rain can mess things up in play, but in a fun way. The photos for this post were all downloaded from the free image site Pixabay. Adding convincing rain to my own photos turned out to be beyond my current photo editing skills. I tried thinking up a way to do it as a practical effect, but that would make more of a mess than I wanted to mop up!

Reaper Bones 77523 C'thulhu Shrine

"It represented a monster of vaguely anthropoid outline, but with an octopus-like head whose face was a mass of feelers, a scaly, rubbery-looking body, prodigious claws on hind and fore feet, and long, narrow wings behind. This thing, which seemed instinct with a fearsome and unnatural malignancy, was of a somewhat bloated corpulence, and squatted evilly on a rectangular block or pedestal covered with undecipherable characters. The tips of the wings touched the back edge of the block, the seat occupied the centre, whilst the long, curved claws of the doubled-up, crouching hind legs gripped the front edge and extended a quarter of the way down toward the bottom of the pedestal. The cephalopod head was bent forward, so that the ends of the facial feelers brushed the backs of huge fore paws which clasped the croucher’s elevated knees."

- "The Call of Cthulhu" - H.P. Lovecraft

Barbarian mercenaries back on guard duty. (28mm scale Reaper Miniatures figures provided for comparison.)

I purchased this figure at the same time as the Reaper Bones 77525 Great Obelisk of C'thulhu.

Compared to the Great Obelisk, this figure is closer to the description of the "grotesque, repulsive, and apparently very ancient stone statuette" of Cthulhu in most aspects except for its size. The figure in the story was "between seven and eight inches in height" and light enough to be "passed slowly from man to man for close and careful study" even though it was made of stone. At 28mm scale, this figure would stand taller than a human and weigh in at over a thousand pounds.

Rear three quarters view.

Like the Great Obelisk of C'thulhu, this figure uses the newer grey plastic rather than the white Bones material. I painted this figure at the same time as the Great Obelisk, mostly using the same techniques. The differences are noted below.

Assembly
The figure comes in two parts - the main body and the wings. The wing section has a tab that fits neatly into a slot between the shoulders of the main body. It is possible to put the wings on upside down! I checked the Reaper Miniatures website and other sources to make sure that I was assembling the figure correctly.

Basing
I used a 40mm round plastic base rather than a 50mm base.

Miskatonic University's interstellar expeditions department is at it again. Just don't read any inscriptions aloud, folks.

The Shrine is more detailed and more faithful to the descriptions in Lovecraft's original stories than the Great Obelisk. On the other hand, the Great Obelisk is still clearly inspired by Lovecraft and is more massive and imposing on the table than the Shrine. Getting both is a viable option - neither is particularly expensive, with the Shrine at $3.99 USD and the Great Obelisk at $4.99 USD.

Somebody read an inscription aloud.

I'm planning on using the two figures in different contexts. The Great Obelisk is big enough to make an impression on its own. It could be the centerpiece of a big fight with a group of cultists. Alternately, it could turn up in the ruins the player characters are exploring, indicating a connection with Cthulhu worship. The Shrine might work better as part of a bigger whole. Maybe as the centerpiece of a temple dedicated to Cthulhu, sharing the table with other cosmic horror inspired terrain.