Reaper Bones 77525 Great Obelisk of C'thulhu

This figure was purchased during my first visit to a local gaming store in quite awhile. I painted it up as a weekend project. It will come in handy the next time I run a game featuring a certain Great Old One.

A pair of barbarian mercenaries guard a weird statue. Their robed employers are a little strange, but their coin spends the same as any other. (28mm scale Reaper Miniatures figures provided for comparison.)

The color scheme was inspired by a scene in "Call of Cthulhu" (the story, not the game). It includes a description of "a grotesque, repulsive, and apparently very ancient stone statuette" of a certain cosmic horror. H.P. Lovecraft uses the terms "greenish" and "greenish-black" for the color of the stone. I ignored the comments describing the "golden or iridescent flecks and striations" for simplicity's sake. This was a weekend project, not something I was shooting for perfection on.

The figure is made from the newer grey Bones material rather than the white Bones plastic I'm used to working on. I decided to use the techniques I usually use rather than experiment. My habit of only using craft paint on terrain pieces reared its head - I used FolkArt paints almost exclusively except for the plastic base and washes.

Rear three quarters view. The inscriptions go all around the figure.

Preparation
I gave the figure a good scrubbing with warm soap and water to remove any manufacturing residue. There were no noticeable mold lines.

Basing
Although it comes with an integral base, I glued the figure on a Reaper 74036 2" Round Plastic RPG Base for additional stability. I primed the base with auto body spray primer before gluing it to the figure.

Priming/First Coat
I mixed a few drops of FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium with FolkArt 479 Pure Black and brushed it over the entire figure. This provided a good underlayer for the dark green paint scheme I was planning for this figure.

Second Coat
Next came a mix of FolkArt 644 Grass Green, FolkArt 2561 Steel Grey, and FolkArt 479 Pure Black to create the "greenish-black" in H.P. Lovecraft's description. I mixed the paints by eye, so I'm not sure about the ratios. This coat was lightly brushed over the figure. The intent was to avoid getting too much paint into the recesses, allowing the initial coat of black to show through as shadows.

Highlight Layer
I drybrushed a little FolkArt 544 Grass Green over the raised areas and corners of the figure. It created a nice, otherworldly effect - almost a glow - that fit with the cosmic horror theme.

An expedition from Miskatonic University's Terra Nova campus investigates an unusual find on an airless moon. (15mm scale GZG figures provided for comparison.)

First Wash Layer
Additional shading was provided by a layer of Reaper 09255 Black Wash brushed over the entire figure. It also brought out the recessed details - especially the symbols - that were starting to get lost in all the dark green.

Second Wash Layer
Secret Weapon W008 Baby Poop Wash was the key to a previous Cthulhu-related project. I decided to use it on this project for consistency. A coat of the green-brown wash tied everything together.

Basing
The final step was to use some sand to texture the plastic base to blend it in with the integral base. The sand was held in place with a mix of Aleene's Tacky Glue, FolkArt 231 Real Brown, and water. After allowing it to dry, I brushed on some FolkArt 420 Linen to give simulate dry soil or sandy terrain. A coat of FolkArt 479 Pure Black was painted on the edge of the plastic base.

Front three quarters view. I hope those guys got paid in advance.

This is a fairly simple figure that gets the point across. It's a hefty chunk of plastic that doesn't have an exciting amount of detail, but it's size gives it a presence on the table. It should work for a variety of scales.

Throwback Project - Secret Weapon Tablescapes Rolling Fields Test Tiles

These terrain pieces were part of Secret Weapon Miniatures' Tablescapes Tiles line. Each 12x12 inch tile is made of sturdy injection molded plastic and locks together using clips. I received a box of sixteen tiles as a Kickstarter backer reward several years ago. I choose the Rolling Fields tiles as the ones with the most utility. Uneven natural terrain featuring a dry creek bed works in any number of settings ranging from fantasy to modern to sci-fi. Secret Weapon Miniatures seem to have phased out the Tablescapes Tiles line and the Rolling Fields are no longer available on their website.

The pair of tiles I painted and detailed as test pieces.

I decided to pick out a couple of tiles as test pieces rather than tackle the whole box of sixteen at once. Some of the techniques I used were tested on the Games Workshop Moonscape Craters earlier this year. Using spray paints cut down painting time considerably, even though I ended up waiting for periods of moderate humidity to get the painting done. I also used a post on the Secret Weapon Miniatures blog for inspiration. The techniques I used differed from the ones described in that post, but they were handy as a reference.

Comparison of the top and bottom of the tiles. The underside is unprimed and unpainted, showing the original color of the plastic.

Preparation
There wasn't any flash or mold lines to cut off, so I went directly to the other kind of clean up. A short soak and some scrubbing in warm soap and water did the trick.

Spray Priming/Painting - First Layer
I sprayed Krylon Camouflage Ultra-Flat Black over the upper surface, using two thin coats to get into all the recesses. Experience has taught me that Krylon Camouflage bonds well to plastic, so I was able to skip priming the tile.

Spray Painting - Second Layer
Next was a coat of Krylon Camouflage Ultra-Flat Brown. I wasn't worried about getting it into every nook and cranny. Any black still showing in the recesses would appear to be shading. I could still see the black through the brown in some areas, but I decided against another coat of brown. Since soil is not uniform in color, I felt that such variations made the tiles look more natural.

A trio of warriors make their way over the dusty badlands.

Spray Painting - Final Layer
I used Krylon Camouflage Ultra-Flat Khaki for the last coat of spray paint. It was applied at an angle so that some of the previous coats would still show through, especially in the recesses. Krylon Camouflage produces convincing natural colors - as the name implies - and the finish has little or no gloss.

Detailing
The brush work started as I painted the rocks using FolkArt 2561 Steel Grey. Looking back, the rocks really shouldn't be the same color. The later highlight and wash layers disguise their uniform color, but I might try for more variation for the next batch. Also, I didn't paint every single rock - just picking out the larger ones was enough for me.

A certain landing party explores another arid planet.

Highlight
I drybrushed a little FolkArt 420 Linen over the surface of each tile to bring out some of the raised details and provide more color variation.

Wash
I mixed a wash using FolkArt 231 Real Brown, a little Liquitex Matte Medium, and water. Then I reached for the biggest hobby brush I own to apply it to both tiles. The final step was to wipe off the excess with a sponge. The wash also seems to have settled deeper into the recesses of the flatter tile, resulting in a darker color. The effect isn't too jarring in most lighting conditions, so I'm not concerned enough to try to correct it. There is also some pooling and streaking visible in some areas.

Close up of the two tiles placed together. Note the slight color difference between the two tiles.

Flock and Static Grass
I decided to go light on the greenery for the first pass. It's in keeping with the dry, desolate look I was going for with the paint scheme. Besides, covering up the texturing on the tiles seemed like a bit of a waste to me.

Overall, the paint scheme turned out the way I wanted - suggesting a place where it hasn't rained in awhile. Maybe it's a little too dry. I may go back for another pass with the flock and static grass. If nothing else, it will cover up some parts where I got a little too aggressive with applying the drybrushing or wash. After that, I'll start knocking these out a tiles or two at a time.

The Klingon Prison Ship IKS Shelka - A Star Trek Adventures Mission Treatment

Sharing another idea from my dusty pile of notes. As before, I present the basic idea and comment on how it can be adapted to different circumstances and eras of Star Trek.


IKS Shelka

There are times when the Klingon Empire has a prisoner that is too high risk for Rura Penthe and too valuable to execute.

One solution is to take a decommissioned battlecruiser out of mothballs and convert it into a mobile maximum security prison. A variety of battlecruisers have served in this role over the decades. The ship is referred to as IKS Shelka in classified records, but it runs under a number of false names and registries conceal its identity and purpose. Shelka is typically deployed to remote parts of the Empire with a carefully vetted crew and their charges. Any observers it would assume it to be another obsolete warship serving out its last days patrolling a backwater sector.

In 2371, IKS Shelka is a K't'inga-class battlecruiser with transponder codes declaring it to be any of a dozen other Klingon warships of the same class. Holographic emitters can change the name and registry painted on the hull in the unlikely chance that the captain lets another ship get close enough for a look. Shelka runs under cloak at random times to throw off attempts to track it. The ship's flight plans are highly classified and the captain has the authority to change course on a whim if there is any suspicion that Shelka is being pursued. As a last resort, Shelka retains its full armament and a reinforced compliment of security personnel. Shelka's captain and crew are under orders to take all necessary measures to keep their charges secure.


"Person of Interest"

Shelka is an expensive prison to run and space is limited. Individuals are sent there only if they are worth the trouble. One such individual happens to be the only person in the galaxy who has the answers the player characters are looking for. Unfortunately, the Klingon Empire isn't keen on giving up the latest prisoner of Shelka. Starfleet Intelligence knows of the existence of Shelka, but hunting down a battlecruiser in a remote sector of the Klingon Empire is an adventure in itself.

This may work best in eras when the interests of the Federation and Klingon Empire aren't aligned. TOS is the obvious choice, but Shelka isn't likely a K't'inga in that era - I'd use a D7 upgraded with a cloaking device instead. There is also the period of tension and outright war in 2372-2373. With most of the Klingon fleet either invading the Cardassian Union or engaging Starfleet, there would be an opening for a single starship to slip into Klingon space and find Shelka.

Alternately, the Klingon Empire could be reluctant to give up the prisoner even to an ally. The individual may possess information that might harm the Empire or the reputation of one or more of its high officials. In that case, finding Shelka is the only option. A Starfleet crew might try persuading Shelka's captain to allow them to question the prisoner. Klingon player characters may opt for a more direct approach and worry about the political consequences later.


"Run for the Border"

The KDF detects Shelka making a high speed run for the borders of the Klingon Empire. All communications were lost days ago. Now, with the prison ship running for another polity's space, they assume the worst. There is a KDF task force already on its heels, but they are too far behind to catch up before it reaches the border. The Klingons must find some way of slowing, stopping, or destroying Shelka.

The Klingon Empire captured someone of value from another organization and placed them in one of the Empire's most secure facilities. The covert arm of that organization sent in a team on a fast ship, intercepted Shelka, and freed the prisoner. Their mission was complicated when their ship was destroyed in the process. The individual, the covert operations team, and any prisoners they could convince to join their cause took the only option available - seize control of Shelka and make a run for it!

How things play out depends on the organizations involved:

The Cardassian military might have a few warships standing by on their side of the border, but won't risk escalating the situation unless they are already at war with the Klingon Empire (any time after 2372).

There is a brief period in 2371 when the Obsidian Order has the warships to support their covert operation team, but might not want to play that card.

In periods where the Federation and the Klingon Empire are in conflict, this could be a covert Starfleet operation to extract a high value asset or captured Federation official. The player characters could be on the covert operations team aboard Shelka or on a starship trying to intercept Shelka before the Klingon task force can catch up. Escape attempts by the other prisoners will complicate these efforts. Additionally, any surviving Shelka crew will take any opportunity to prevent escape, even if they have to destroy the ship.

If the Federation and the Klingon Empire are allies during the adventure, the player characters' starship could receive a call for aid in intercepting Shelka before it can escape. This may present a moral quandary for a Federation starship crew if no alternative to destroying Shelka presents itself. Alternately, the player characters could receive a call for help from Shelka - the prisoners want to claim asylum within the Federation! Things get awkward when the Klingons show up wanting their prisoners back.

The prisoner may be a Klingon renegade with information that the Empire wants, but has resisted all attempts at interrogation. The prisoner might be rescued by mercenaries hired as deniable assets by other Klingons. Romulans if the prisoner is associated with the House of Duras. Or associates of the prisoner from the Orion Syndicate.

The Orion Syndicate might arrange for another fast ship to take the prisoner and the team to safety before Shelka can be intercepted, but aren't likely to take on a Klingon task force.

The Romulan Star Empire could be relying on its military or the Tal Shiar to run such an extraction operation. In either case, cloaked warbirds are likely already on the way to intercept Shelka. In the case of the Romulan military, they may have enough force on hand to make a fight of it with the pursuing Klingon task force. The Tal Shiar may not have that kind of firepower, but are likely to have something tricky in mind.

Tutorial - On Prepping Reaper Bones

Something that comes up in every post about painting a Reaper Bones miniature is describing how I prepare it beforehand. I don't want to skip or gloss over the details - it's potentially valuable information for anyone unfamiliar with the plastic used in earlier Bones figures. On the other hand, there's a fair number of steps involved and I don't want spend too much time on them every time I publish a Bones post. It gets repetitive. And I'm running out of ways to rephrase the information.

This post describes the process that works best for me. It is partly the result of information I found online - credit and links to those sources are provided. I came by the rest the old fashioned way - trial and error.

Note that this process is specific to the white plastic used in earlier Bones miniatures such as those from the first Kickstarter. I don't currently have any experience with the light grey plastic used in more recent Bones figures manufactured in the USA or the dark grey plastic in Reaper's Bones Black line. I'll be learning how to work with those materials when I get to those parts of my collection.


Cleaning

My first step with any model is a through scrubbing in warm soap and water. No special detergents or tools - just dishwashing soap and a toothbrush with firm bristles. The residue from manufacturing can remain on Bones miniatures even after a long period of storage. A good cleaning removes it along with any skin oils from handling.

Reaper Bones miniatures after gluing them on to washer bases, before brushing on primer mix.

Steel Fender Washer

I keep a stack of one inch steel fender washers that I previously spray primed around for Bones and other plastic miniatures. Gluing a washer to the underside of the integral base of a Bones miniature keeps it from falling over on the table. The extra weight and wider base adds stability, but the washer is thin enough not to add too much height to the figure. I got the idea from Chris Palmer at All Bones About It, who is much further along with his Bones collection than I am. Blending the integral base with the flat surface of the washer is a process I describe further below.


Priming

Brushing on FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium is recommended in this post on the Reaper forums. Some folks have good results from painting directly on the plastic, but I had issues when I tried that approach. I've also had fair, but workable results from using Liquitex Matte Medium whenever I've run out of FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium. It didn't seem to hold the paint as well, requiring an additional coat to get good coverage.

Since both mediums are clear and difficult to see on the white plastic, I add a few drops of paint to see what parts of the figure are coated. Another benefit is that the paint tends to collect in the recesses, making the details easier for me to see. I use either a brown or black paint, based on what colors I'm planning to use on the figure.

I avoid using spray paints or primers on Bones miniatures. The results from the one time I tried were poor. The surface of that miniature never got better, even after I plowed ahead and painted over the spray paint. "Rolf" ended up in the recycle bin when even a long soak in Simple Green didn't fix the problem.

After brushing on primer mix. This is usually the step when I discover all the details - including the mold lines I missed.

Base Texturing

I typically finish a Bones miniature by mixing some PVA glue, brown craft paint, and just enough water to improve the flow. The mix gets brushed over the surface of the integral base and the washer. Then I sprinkle enough sand to provide texture and blend both surfaces together.

I used to brush on PVA glue and water to hold the sand in place, wait for it to dry, then apply the brown paint. Adding the paint to the watered down glue streamlines the process.

The final step happens after the mix has dried completely and the sand is securely in place. I dry brush some light tan or linen colored craft paint over the sand. How much depends on the results I'm after - a little to simulate dry earth, more to give the base a sandy appearance.


The above goes into the process I use with Bones miniatures in much more detail than anything I've presented previously. I'll be linking to this post in future posts featuring Reaper Bones miniatures.